N.Hoolywood opened its first store abroad in Hong Kong. Designer Daisuke Obana spoke with THINK SILLY on work, design concept, his past and life.

Text: BEBOP | Translation: dilettante | Photo: Anthony Chan

TS: THINK SILLY
N: DAISUKE OBANA

TS: Why do you choose Hong Kong as the location for your first store abroad?
N: You may say it is by coincidence. I was not planning to open a store abroad, but only started thinking about the idea when I saw the right space. I travel to Europe and America more often. Hong Kong is an extremely energetic city, in some aspect even more so than Tokyo.

TS: Why did you take ‘American Splendor’ by Harvey Dekar as your inspiration for the A/W 2008 -2009 Collection ‘Daily Life Truth’?
N: I am not a big fan of reading, unless it is on a subject that interests me. I like reading comics, and ‘American Splendor’ being one of my favourite. The characters are very real, and so as the situation they are in. Although some parts can be dull, the realistic story line is very attractive to me. The description is in much detail, even the outfits of the characters. I thought it would be fun to create them for real, so that is what I did.

TS: You seem to take interest in cultural issues in your previous collections, such as ‘Activist’ (S/S 2004), ‘Camp Denali’ (A/W 2006) and ‘CDA’ (A/W 2007). Some say you are investigating American culture through fashion, would you agree with that statement?
N: America is a huge country and accommodates various cultures. When people speak about ‘American culture’, more often than not they refer to the most stereotype level only. There are much misunderstanding and confusion among people on this issue. I am interested in finding what exists between the ‘gap’.

TS: N.Hoolywood fashion shows are often very theatrical and experimental. Do you think about the format of the show when you design the collections?
N: I usually have a few ideas developing in my head at the same time. It takes a long time for these ideas to progress. Only when the various parts come together, for example the format of fashion show, then the concept of the collection is finalised. The core concept of a collection runs through the whole project including all parts.

TS: The media often compare N.Hollywood to Under Cover, especially that the label resembles early Under Cover in its development. They also predict that the label will cause a stir in the international stage. What is your view on all these?
N: Really? I am not aware of any of these at all. I have a lot of respect for Jun Takahashi who is my fellow and a great friend. N.Hoolywood and Under Cover are two very different labels, heading opposite design direction almost. I see N.Hoolywood to be very down to earth and casual, which is rather different from the aesthetic of Under Cover. I am very happy to have Jun Takahashi as my fellow.

TS: Your ‘Activist’ collection (S/S 2004) is based on Dead Kennedys’ member Jello Biafra. What kind of music do you like?
N: I listen to all sorts of music. When I work I listen to instrumental, which makes me relax yet focused.

TS: You worked as a buyer for vintage clothing and used to customise them in the 1990s, before launching N.Hoolywood. How does this ‘vintage period’ influence your work now?
N: Vintage is my favourite type of style and I take interest in it down to the details. It is the same style that I am trying to pursue with N.Hoolywood.

TS: What do you do in your free time?
N: Like a common office worker. I would have beer or dinner with friends. I particularly like cold noodles and scout them all over Japan.

N.HOOLYWOOD HONG KONG
Shop G104, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong.
+852 2736 0030
www.n-hoolywood.com